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Aha, hvala na pojasnjenju!  Smile U svakom slucaju svidjaju mi se ti branici, auto deluje bas bas agresivno! Smile

Uh, stage 2! Smile Sta spada u njega tj. sta treba da se menja i koji je krajnji rezultat? 350+ ks? Ako bude stage 2 red bi bio i neke 19", hehehe. Iste ove 19" kao sa R-a ili neke druge? Smile
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Cupra ima 241 dok Cupra R ima 265 ks. Moja Cupra je imala 241 a sada ima 325 ks i kao sto rekoh idem na Stage 2+. To ce tek da bude ozbiljan prevoz! Smile
Ma klasika... od kuce do posla, sta ces vise   Smile Smile Smile  Kuca poso-poso kuca. 350 "konja", koji poni gore-dole nije bitno vise   Smile

p.s

Mada tebi bese i bluzu radno mesto Smile  Nesto oko 2.000 km  hahaha
« Poslednja izmena: 13. Apr 2011, 18:50:02 od Sale_S »
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Uh, stage 2! Smile Sta spada u njega tj. sta treba da se menja i koji je krajnji rezultat? 350+ ks? Ako bude stage 2 red bi bio i neke 19", hehehe. Iste ove 19" kao sa R-a ili neke druge? Smile

Stage 2 je vec odradjen na Cupri i on je obuhvatio Supersprint izduv (od grana, preko visokopropusnog sportskog katalizatora pa do izduva), "damp" ventil i remapiranje ECU-a. Rezultat je 325 ks (240 fabricki) i 430 Nm (300 fabricki).

Stage 2+ koji tek nameravam da odradim obuhvata novu benzinsku pumpu veceg pritiska, doradu mape i veci interkuler. Po recima glavnog inzenjera tjunig kuce gde cu raditi doradu, rezultat bi trebao da bude ~360 ks i oko 460 Nm.

Sasvim pristojno! Smile

Za sada mi se najvise svidjaju 19" sa Cupre R, ludacki izgledaju uzivo kako dok auto stoji, tako i u voznji. A gume koje idu na njih dimenzija 235/35 R19 su istih dimenzija kao i gume koje idu na prednje tockove Porschea Carrere. Smile

Ma klasika... od kuce do posla, sta ces vise   Smile Smile Smile  Kuca poso-poso kuca. 350 "konja", koji poni gore-dole nije bitno vise   Smile

p.s

Mada tebi bese i bluzu radno mesto Smile  Nesto oko 2.000 km  hahaha

Da, mada... za odlazak na posao pre bi mi odgovarao avion! Smile Ove godine se necu vracati dole, odlucio sam da napravim pauzu, zato sam i kupio motor...
« Poslednja izmena: 13. Apr 2011, 21:01:21 od bockoyogi »
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Da, mada... za odlazak na posao pre bi mi odgovarao avion! Smile Ove godine se necu vracati dole, odlucio sam da napravim pauzu, zato sam i kupio motor...
Ti kako si krenuo napravice avion od automobila  Smile


Nisam pratio temu, koji mtor imas?
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Prjatelji... Sinoc mi ogrebali auto do lima! Cela leva stana i gepek pozadi. A nema 15 dana kako sam ga uz'o. Ima li nade da nekom polirkom to uklonim, (ili neki servis koji to radi) ili mora na farbanje? Slikacu kasnije kisa je napolju.
Dva puta za nedelju dana ogrebali mom bratu, pa sinoc meni. Velika je steta, nije povrsinski. Duboko jje
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Tako su mom drugaru astru bertone izgrebali do lima,on nekih pola godine popunjavao nekim kao lakom za nokte samo je bas namenjen za ogrebotine ali na kraju je ipak morao komplet farbanje...Nema sanse da se to ispolira ako je tako duboko kako kazes...


A za to grebanje to jajarisanje to je druga prica majku li im njihovu  Smile Smile Smile
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E, zna li neko mogu li i kako zameniti diodice na tabli kod Reno Espace-a? Da budu, recimo, plave

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« Poslednja izmena: 15. Apr 2011, 19:26:27 od Sale_S »
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what you need:
solder gun
solder
LED's
CRD's or resistor's
wire
electrical tape
hot glue/gun
small dikes
small pliers
thin plastic or PCB boards

what you should have:
hot knife
Dremel tool
hobby work station (like magnifying glass and alligator clips attached to a stand)

Get most all of this stuff at RADIO SHACK if you live in the USA.
I suggest buying LED's in bulk off eBay

First of all, you need to know a little about how electricity works. It's VERY basic and easy.
Specifically, 12v DC circuits and resistors and what not.

If you already have some basic knowledge or think you can hack it without it, then lets move on.
So, the most common confusion with LED's come from selecting the right resistor.
Here's a very simple site and calculator for choosing the right size for your application.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_info.htm
Those first 3 blocks you enter the values from your LED.

I have found that ordering LED's in bulk off eBay is the cheapest way. I buy like 800+ LED's at a time, its so freakin cheap, im talking like $15 for hundreds of LED's.
However, you need to write down or save the email from your purchase because the LED data info does not come with the LED's i ordered off eBay!!
I had to dig up old emails and find the auctions again in order to find the voltage, mA, info for calculating the right resistor.
BTW, buy the brightest LEDs you can!! They are rated in MCD for brightness, I bought mostly 10,000mcd LED's but some are 6500mcd.


Now, if you can get the new CRD (current regulating diode) from Japan, then DO IT! I don't know if they are available in the USA yet, but if they are, BUY THEM!!
They are much better then resitors and ALOT easier to figure out. I use the 15mA CRD 153E. They are the most expensive part of my LED projects but much worth it. They are around $1 a piece if you buy a few at a time, but you can get packs of 100 for less then $60 so again, buy in bulk!
Ok, so first I will talk about basic LED wiring using the CRD's in case you can get them in the US now.


It's super freakin easy!!
1x 15mA CRD inline on the + side of a series of 3 LED's
Here's a 15mA CRD on the positive side of a 3mm LED


small eh!?
Yeah, now here is a resistor on the positive side of a 5mm LED


See how BIG a resitor is compared to a CRD?
Not to mention, for every # of LED's on your circuit, it requires a different resistor size.
For example, here is a 2 LED circuit, which requires a different resistor...


Ok, see with CRD's, you can use 1 CRD inline with 1 LED, or 2 LED's, or 3 LED's, after 4 LEDs the light dims a little (on a 12v circuit)
The SAME size CRD works for it all. No choosing or selecting. If you want to go over 3, like say 6, then just add 1 more CRD.
easy huh!?!?!
So bascially...
1-3 LED = 1 CRD
4-6 LED = 2 CRD
7-9 LED = 3 CRD
Get it? The SAME CRD size, (in this case 15mA) works for them all.
(btw they also make a 30mA CRD which acts like 2 15mA CRD's, get it?)

Ok, enough with CRD's. I HOPE you can get them in the US, i don't see why not. It is new technology, but should be available right?

Back to resistors since thats what is the "standard" in the US.
I'm not going to say "use this size resistor", but I will post pics and you can see the color code and decide for yourself.
Once you decide on a size of resistor, buy a but load of them.
I SUGGEST, choosing the size resistor for running 3 of whatever LED's you buy.
(oh yeah, this is another crap thing about using resistors, they vary depending on the LED size as well, not just the # of them in your circuit)
Another advantage of running CRD's is that IT DOESN'T MATTER what size LED's you run on your circuit, the SAME 15mA CRD handles it!!!! NO HEADACHE!!

Ok, sorry, back to gay resistors.
So when you buy your LED's, check the data info, voltage, etc, and then calculate using 3 of them in a circuit, then buy a bunch of the right sized resistor.
This is the most complicated part of LED circuitry, it gets confusing, but read up on it, its not that hard!!

btw, a resistor, or CRD, go on the + side of the LED circuit.
Yes, LED's have + and - sides unlike a light bulb.
If you peer inside the LED, you will see that one of the prongs usually shorter prong (+), is attached to the smaller stump inside the LED. Where as the longer prong (-) is attached to the bigger L shaped stump inside the LED.
Again, i refer to this picture, see the bigger stump inside is the negative side, and the resistors are attached to the positive side.


Now, get yourself some kind of power source, 9v is fine, just get a 9v battery, attached a plug to it so you have a positive and negative side, use it for testing your LED's, you will do this ALOT!!
Now make some circuit, try 3 in a row, whatever. Just perfect your soldering skills.
Ok now you know how to wire them up.

We will start with tail lights.
Now comes the HARDEST PART!
Cutting up your tail lamps! AARGH!
I forgot to take pics of mine, but i found these pics on the internets.
This is where the hot knife or Dremel comes in, I suggest the hot knife, it works WAY better, faster, cleaner, more accurate. A Dremel works too but it gets shit EVERYWHERE and destroys cutting discs.
There are basically 2 ways to open your tail lamps.
This is the suggested method. Simply cut out the BACK SIDE in the areas you need to get open so you can place your LED boards inside.



The other method is to separate the outer lens (red plastic cover) from the back plastic housing.
No pics because I don't suggest it. I did this for the first 2 tail lamps I did and fucked up the plastic, chipped the corners a bit. Kinda fucked up.
Dont even bother, just cut out the backs like above. It's easy to hot glue back into place when your done, you can also use some hard glues or JB Weld plastic, etc.

Ok, now that you have your tail lights opened up, you can visually inspect how you want to place your LED boards.
This is where your imagination and creativity is the limit. I have seen some people make plastic "back boards" and drill tiny holes and place lots of individual LED's int he board, but the most common and easiet way is to use the PCB boards you buy at hobby shops.
In all the pics you should see coming up, i used small 2"x3" PCB's. They have little copper contacts around each small hole on one side.

For my first time doing this, I just went with the easiest route and didnt modify my PCB's.
Here is how I laid out my LED's for each one of my tail lamps (i have 4 in all)


You probably notice there are both CRD's and resistors in that pic, thats because i ran out of CRD's and had to use resistors (they came with one of my LED orders)
The top and bottom row is for tail lamps.


The middle row is for brake lights. (yes, 3 different size LED's cause I was trying to make them brighter, still not enough)


And here is both on


Here is the back side. It looks complicated, but rather simple.
The 2 wires on the right are both positives, one is for brake and one is for tail circuits, the wire on left is the ground for ALL circuits.

You can see the little copper contacts you solder too on this side, notice its cleaner to put the resistors or CRDs on the other side.
Get creative and the more you do it, the more efficient you become in your circuit layouts and design. This is one of my intermediate designs, but havn't changed much since.
Its a very efficient diesng layout for my specific use/need.

Oh... before you button everything up, take it outside in the SUNLIGHT to check for brightness.
In the day/sun my brake lamp circuits are NOT bright enough. I re-modified my corner tail lamps a 2nd time and added the stock filament bulb back in, it sits behind the PCB board i made for each side, works perfect, I still get the LED effect for tail lamps, but for brakes, i still get the filament bulb birghtness.
Later when i have time, I will make it ALL LED for brake lights. I just need to use more. I obviously didnt use enough, i dont know what i was thinking.
I will triple the LEDs for my brake light circuits next time. My tail lamp circuits however are perfect!
BTW, i used all RED LED's, they simply look the best, so clean, so red. Using white works too but it washes out the red color to more of a pink/orange.
I suggest however, using all white LEDs for brake light circuits and all red LEDs for tail light circuits.

Here's the finished product with only tail lamps on.


Looks sooo good. (nevermind the wierdness of the far left corner lamp, in that pic it was still stock, notice its pinker in color.

Ok, here's another way of designing your boards.
front
notice 7 rows of 4 LED's


back
notice he chose a resistor for powering 4 LED's, using 1 resistor for each row
then you either put some tape on it or hot glue it up to protect your circuits from water
(if you think you may modify them in the future, dont bother glueing the backs, its a PITA!



I have since made 2 reverse light boards.
I modified the little PCB's, cut them down and attached them end to end making long skinny boards
Again, i was out of CRD's so i used resistors.
I ran 1 resistor for every 3 LED's
Its so freakin bright when I back up at night.





Here's a few other applications I played around with just for fun.
map light and door light







Toyota digital climate control




light ring around the ignition key ( i have since made a push button start in the key tumblers place)



Well, thats all for now, i will take more pics as I do more.
This weekend I will be fixing one of my corner tail lamps so i will take more pics.
Oh, I also have done my blinkers front and rear.
I'm going to add some behind each door mirror for a neat effect, maybe later put some under each exterior door handle.
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Moras da rastavis tablu, da vidis kakve ti sijalice idu. Imas da narucis kod nas, preko neta LED ubodne sijalice samo ih zamenis.
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Zna li neko nesto o ovim andjelima za kadeta?Da li je ovo PS ili oni stvarno postoje?Imam informaciju sa Brazilskog foruma, da je ova slika kataloska i da je kao neka radnja u Svajcarskoj...Nigde nisam nasao ni sliku a ni konkretnu prodaju ovih farova i sve vise mislim da slika nije prava  Smile  Smile  Smile  Ako iko ima ikakvu informaciju ili ima vremena da mi pomogne u potrazi bio bih mu puno zahvalan  Smile

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